Voices From The Field: Randy Treichler, Star Hollow Farm

(Often in the sustainable food community, discussions are dominated by academics, government officials, scientists, activists and ordinary eaters from all over the world. These voices are important. However, because there could never be sustainable food without farmers, I hope this series of articles will give some insight into what actual producers view as the key to changing both how we eat and how we view those who produce our food.)

In a very rural area 100 miles north of our nation's capital, Randy and Chris Treichler own and operate Star Hollow Farm, an 85-acre organic farm certified by Pennsylvania Certified Organic, a USDA-accredited agency operating in most Mid-Atlantic States.

On about 15 acres of the farm they grow multiple varieties of organic produce mixed in amongst a checkerboard of various grass and legume cover crops used to improve soil quality and fertility, as well as provide habitat for beneficial insects and breaks between crops so that insect pests have a puzzle to figure out when they try to move from one crop patch to the next. 150 laying hens are raised in a large fenced pasture where they are free to stretch, roam, and scratch in search of bugs and worms, and do what chickens like to do. There is also a rooster, an uneconomical and unnecessary requirement for egg production, but a very important part of the “pecking order” in chicken life. Beginning last year, the Treichlers also began making use of their forestland by growing shiitake and oyster mushrooms on logs in the woods.

As well as growing produce to sell at various farmers’ markets and through their online store and CSA, Star Hollow Farm is part of the Tuscarora Organic Growers (TOG) cooperative. A small share of what they grow—mostly potatoes and winter squash—is sold through TOG, and their membership also allows them to buy from the co-op and sell additional local, organic produce as well as eggs, cheese and other products from other producers in the area.

I am a member of the farm's online CSA (which will be discussed more below) and have asked Randy to share some of his thoughts on farming, food and sustainability with the change.org community.

How did you learn about and become involved in organic farming?

I'm originally from the city, but left home at 18 to study ag in college and work on commercial farms. All of that experience, ranging over 10 years or so, was with conventional agriculture, as promoted by the Land Grant college system during the '70s and '80s.

When my wife and I, along with our very young children, actually began to farm on our own, my wife's knowledge of health risks with conventional produce, and my preference for a more natural (and safe for the farmer!) way of farming convinced us that organic was the way to grow. And if that's how we would produce our crops, why not get certified and promote that with our customers?

How is your CSA different from traditional CSA's?

We did the more traditional CSA model (read “subscription” CSA) for four years, beginning in the mid-90's. It was a hard sell back then, and we found from our annual surveys of customers that the idea of having to get a box every week, choosing the size at the start of the season, having no choice of what was in it, was just not right for any but the “hard core” CSA members.

So we sat down with a couple of martinis one night, put on our thinking caps, and came up with what we thought would give the customers everything they wanted... choice and timing. We called it the Online Farmers Market, and thought it was “beyond CSA,” and that we were through with CSA as we had known it. Not so, however, as the flood of food books started coming out several years ago, and we found ourselves flooded with inquiries about whether or not we had a CSA. We told people, “no, not anymore... we have something better....” but they didn't want to hear about it, they wanted to join a CSA.

Another thinking cap moment (this time without the martini-assist, as I was driving the truck home from market!) and I realized I could just add a line item to the online store that was for a CSA box and voila, the next week we had people signing up for our “new-era” CSA! When they want an order, they can order a box where we choose the items, add cheese, eggs, preserves, or local fruit, or just order exactly what they want from the store a la carte, and either way, it all comes out of their CSA account. Basically they establish a credit account with us, and can use it as fast or as slow as they wish. [Click here for more information on the “new era” CSA]

What do you think are the benefits of eating locally grown food?

Of course I have the farmer's viewpoint first in mind... it helps encourage local farmers, which helps maintain local businesses (as farmers buy a lot of supplies!), keeps green space green... and productive! From the other side, it is certainly fresher for the customer, lasts longer, often offers greater variety (as we grow many crops not really suited to the bigger food chain markets), and makes that connection between the producer and the eater.

What is your relationship with the community like?

In DC, my main market, I have two locations, one where I interact with and know my CSA members – most of them by name – and another where I drop off boxes and go. I much prefer the former, where I can get to know who is eating my food, and they have access to me.... if they want it! Some do, some don't, and that's fine, but I wish all farmers could look face-to-face with the people eating their food. It would certainly do a lot for the integrity of the operation! In fact, the whole CSA movement actually comes from Japan, I understand, where the name for it translates to something like “food with the farmer's face on it.” Rather graphic – and perhaps unpalatable – but nonetheless indicative of the importance they place on the relationship between grower and eater.

Have you thought about incorporating renewable energy technologies into your operation?

Some, but it's tricky. Some of them are quite expensive to initiate, and small farms are notoriously cash-poor. Others, like making biodiesel from used restaurant cooking oil, are neat ideas, but I get bogged down with the realities of hauling yucky oil in the back of my market truck where CSA orders sit, and what a mess that would make if/when there is a spill. At the moment I'm mainly thinking about converting over our electric and propane heated greenhouse and packing shed to radiant floor heat, using windblown trees from our woods as fuel for an outdoor wood furnace. That adds CO2 to the environment, I know, but is more sustainable than some electric and propane power sources, and it would allow more energy independence here on the farm.

Are you able to completely support yourself by farming? 

Yes and no. Yes, we're not going off-farm for added income anymore (we used to), but the level at which we are supporting ourselves is such that we can't begin to afford private health insurance or paying into a retirement fund. The only way we have health care is by being so poor we are eligible for state assistance. I think until last year, our income was such that we were also eligible for food stamps, if that puts our level of prosperity in perspective (we didn't apply for them). And if it were not for marketing year-round – nice for the customer... but at times I worry about burning out... most farmers have a down time... I don't feel like we do anymore – we wouldn't be able to make it through each winter.

Do you think that federal and state government does enough to support sustainable farming? 

No, of course not. The ONLY thing they do, that I'm aware of, is offer a small rebate for our organic certification, but even that is not commensurate with the increase in fees since USDA got involved in organics. Ten years ago we paid less than $200 to be certified; now its over $1200, and we get $500 back.

How does the use of crop and cover crop rotation benefit the farm?

We rotate crops to rest the soil and interrupt disease and insect infestations. We use cover crops for many reasons... to protect and build the soil and organic matter, to provide fertility in lieu of buying petroleum based fertilizers, to hold the land in case of floods, to provide habitat for beneficial insects and birds, to aid in our crop rotation scheme.

What advice do you have for young, aspiring farmers who hope to make working the land their career?

Be prepared for long hours, hard work (they probably guessed that), but more importantly, major economic stress. It's a huge investment in time, money, and personal energy, and then when it doesn't seem to be working.... I had no idea how psychologically and emotionally stressful farming could be. Having said that, I love doing it and can't imagine doing anything else now. I just hope I don't burn out, and that the economics get better, and that the stress goes down some.

What do you see as the major problem with the industrial farming system in the United States?

Unsustainable, unsafe for farmers, farm workers and the environment, and unhealthy for many domestic animals.

What do you think are the important factors in moving toward a more sustainable food system?

Wow... lots to think of there. Less material inputs, especially fossil fuels. Fewer pesticides contaminating the environment. More support for small farms, rather than tax breaks for the big guys.

(Photo credit: Randy Treichler)