What's Race Got to Do with It?

I have been in Uganda for a little over three days now, and while I have yet to begin my work with ORUDE, the local microfinance and community development NGO in Jinja, one facet of Ugandan life already stares me in the face, shaking my core.  Tragically, many Ugandans perceive their identity as inferior to the buzungs (white people/foreigners) because they have dark skin.

Before I continue, let me be clear, I am not making any racially charged accusations throughout the rest of this post, but trying to accurately report what I witness on a day-to-day basis while living in Jinja.

The children on the street shout "Muzungu!" as I walk by.  The men and women not-so-discreetly whisper "muzungu" while I pass their store fronts.  It is enough to make any individual stand out, but interestingly, I am not isolated, but greeted because of the color of my skin.  Despite years of racial subjugation by the British before Ugandan independence, children hold my hand just to feel the "whiteness."  Many view me as holistically superior because I say, "Nza America" (I come from America).  Would you not expect a dislike or even distrust of whiteness?

The most outstanding example I can provide relates to a comment by my teacher here in Uganda.  While I would prefer she remain anonymous, she is a very well respected and admired woman on Jinja.  With many degrees, and incredible local knowledge, she does amazing things for the FSD staff and people of Jinja.

In a recent training session, we were in small groups attempting to create sample work plans in preparation for our real projects.  Admirably, my teacher demonstrated the importance of including the community in all development work through an interesting example.

She roughly proclaimed that it would not be sufficient to provide her with bleach to turn her skin white.  She said this would not fix the problem, for once we left, she would run out of bleach and then her skin would turn black once again.  Instead we must provide the tools to build capacity and development.

While I agree with the importance of capacity building of local members so that they can grown themselves, and the sentiment was certainly judicious, my stomach turned upside down when I heard those words.  Coming from a friend and admired elder, how am I to react as a 21 year student?

I leave you with this to ponder.  How do race relations in the US, especially between black and white relate to this example?  In many ways they are almost diametrically opposite. In some ways, they are oddly similar.

I encourage you to discuss.  Have you been abroad where your skin color greatly affects your identity?

Note: note everyone here in Uganda feels this way.  This may seem obvious, but I want to note it.  I met several students studying in Rochester Hills, MI (very close to my home), a few days ago in a local library.  I know they do not feel this way.  But the fact that someone so intricately linked with the community, with such a position of responsibility consciously/subconsciously does, speaks loudly to the role of race in Ugandan society.